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Prune plants in March
This is a quick pruning guide for Spring! This obviously will vary according
to extremes of weather!
Some plants should be left over winter and only pruned in the spring
to protect their buds. Our pruning hints - keep a record of the pruning instructions you sometimes
get when you buy plants (on the labels -), or ask friends who've given
you cuttings. if you feel that any of your
trees, shrubs or climbers need a bit of care and attention, here are
a few notes
to
use
as a pruning
guide
during March.
TREES
Eucalyptus (gum tree)
Eucalyptus gunnii grown for its ornamental juvenile foliage will need
pruning now. Cut back all new growth annually on both coppiced and
pollarded eucalyptus. Specimen trees that require pruning to maintain
the balance of the canopy can also be tackled now. They also respond
well to heavy pruning, so if a tree becomes top-heavy it can be cut
back, lopped or topped before growth starts in spring.
I love the colour of the leaves on this tree! There was one next to my
son's primary school where we used to live! Never had any koala bears in
it though! (Manchester not Melbourne!)
Eucryphia
New specimens can be encouraged to produce a well-branched canopy
by tipping back the leading shoots at this time of the year. Thereafter,
regular pruning is unnecessary. However, it is worth checking for winter
damage. Cut back branches that have been damaged by frost and cold
weather
conditions during the winter months. Prune to a healthy sideshoot lower
down. If this unbalances the overall shape, prune other branches to
re-establish symmetry to the canopy.
SHRUBS
Abeliophyllum (white forsythia)
Prune after flowering by cutting back one or two of the oldest stems
to a vigorous sideshoot near to the base. This will encourage vigorous,
free-flowering shoots from low down, helping to keep the shrub neat
and compact. Neglected plants that have become a tangled mess and flower
poorly, can have one-in-three stems removed each year starting with
the oldest. In this way, the whole plant will have been reinvigorated
after three years. New wall-trained shrubs should have stems tied into
the supports to form a permanent framework. Thereafter, new growth
should be cut back annually, after flowering during early spring, to
two or three buds from the main framework.
Artemisia (wormwood)
After the worst of the winter frosts have passed in your garden, encourage
young plants to produce a compact bushy shape by pruning after planting,
cutting all stems back to 5cm (2in). You can keep the plants bushy thereafter
by regularly pinching out the shoot tips of new growth. Well-established
plants also can be cut back in mid- to late spring to maintain a bushy
habit. Cut back all stems to within15cm (6in) of the ground. Specimens
left un-pruned should be inspected for winter damage and any frosted
or spindly growth removed.
Brachyglottis (Senecio 'Sunshine')
As new growth starts to break and the worst of the winter frosts are
over in your garden, encourage a compact bushy shape by pruning back
any lax or wayward stems. Also, check the plant for winter damage and
remove affected growth. Otherwise, leave any pruning to mid-summer after
flowering is over. Old, neglected plants can be cut back hard in spring,
but are best replaced with a young vigorous specimen because old plants
can be slow to respond to severe pruning.
Buddleja davidii (butterfly bush)
New plants should be cut back now to create a short, stubby framework
of branches 15-90cm (6-36in) high, depending on how tall you want the
shrub to be. Thereafter, you can keep the shrub neat, vigorous and free-flowering
by pruning back hard annually during early spring. As new growth starts
to break, remove all of the previous year's growth to two or three pairs
of buds from the main framework. Old, neglected plants also respond well
to cutting back hard at this time of the year.
This shrub can easily get out of control if its in a bit of your garden
which suits it!
Ceanothus 'Gloire de Versailles'
Unlike other ceanothus, this deciduous variety should be cut back in
early spring to keep the shrub, compact and free flowering. The blue
flowers are produced on new growth produced during the current season.
During the first few seasons after planting, establish a framework of
stubby stems and then, in subsequent years, cut all new growth back to
within two or three buds of this framework.
Colutea (bladder senna)
Little or no annual pruning is needed, other than the removal of dead
or diseased stems and thinning out congested growth. If space is limited,
well-established shrubs can be kept within bounds by either tipping back
shoots each spring or cutting back the whole branches to within a few
buds of their base. If you find this too drastic, cut out just one stem
in three starting with the oldest.
Cotinus (smoke bush)
During the first spring after planting, cut back new growth made the
previous season by about one-third to help create a well-branched, rounded
shrub. Little pruning is required thereafter, apart from the removal
of any misplaced, diseased or crossing branches. However, you can prune
to promote different types of growth. For flowers, leave well alone.
If you want to encourage spectacular foliage displays, cut all the stems
back hard to within two or three buds of the base during early spring.
To get both flowers and quality foliage cut out one stem in three each
spring, starting with the oldest.
Daphne
No regular pruning is needed with daphnes, other than the removal of
stems that have died back. Clean the blade of the secateurs with a suitable
disinfectant between cuts to avoid spreading disease. You can also help
maintain the neat and compact shape of the daphne by trimming lightly
at this time of the year.
Elsholtzia
Top growth will have been killed in colder areas and this simply needs
clearing away in spring. In mild gardens, new plants with top growth
in tact, should be cut back now to create a short, stubby framework of
branches about 10cm (4in) high. Thereafter, you can keep the shrub neat,
vigorous and free-flowering by pruning back hard during early spring.
As new growth starts to break each spring, remove all of the previous
year's growth to two or three pairs of buds from the main framework.
Escallonia rubra, Escallonia 'Iveyi'
During the first few years after planting, prune lightly to encourage
bushy growth. Thereafter, no regular pruning is needed, although these
escallonias can be kept within bounds by cutting back hard during early
spring. Otherwise, simply cut back any shoots that spoil the symmetry
of the shrubs.
Forsythia
Do not prune forsythia during the first few years after planting. However,
once established, older plants that are left un-pruned become woody at
the base where few flowers are produced. To avoid this, prune after flowering
has finished, by cutting out one-in-three of the main stems at the base,
starting with the oldest. Neglected plants can be rejuvenated by cutting
back all flowered shoots to a strong bud near to the base of the shrub.
New wall-trained shrubs should have stems tied into the supports to form
a permanent framework. Thereafter, new growth should be cut back after
flowering during early spring to two or three buds from the main framework.
Trim forsythia hedges after flowering too, then leave un-pruned until
the following year otherwise you risk removing all of next spring's flowers.
Fothergilla
Little or no annual pruning is needed, other than the removal of dead
or diseased stems and thinning out congested growth. Always aim to cut
back to a healthy side shoot lower down.
Fuchsia magellanica, Fuchsia fulgens
Hardy fuchsias will have their top growth killed in most areas and this
simply needs clearing away in spring - cutting back to near ground level,
taking care not to damage emerging new shoots. In mild areas, top growth
may survive and so hardy fuchsia can be treated as deciduous shrubs.
Simply remove any dead growth and thin out congested stems, or keep within
bounds by cutting back main stems to a healthy side shoot lower down.
Griselinia
Little or no annual pruning is needed, other than the removal of dead
or diseased stems. Do this in spring. Leave trimming hedges until the
summer.
Hamamelis (witch hazel)
Avoid pruning hamamelis unless absolutely necessary because they are
very slow growing. However, it is worth pruning to remove dead or diseased
stems or to balance the shape of the canopy after flowering is over.
Aim to cut back to a healthy side shoot lower down the stem being removed.
Also watch out for suckers produced from below the union on grafted plants.
These should be removed completely.
Hebe
Hebes grown for their foliage rather than their flowers, such as H cupressoides
'Boughton Dome' and H. 'Red Edge', can be pruned in spring to achieve
a compact and neat habit. Neglected plants can be cut back hard since
new shoots will be readily produced from near to the base. Hebes grown
for their flowers and foliage such as H. pinguifolia 'Pagei', H. albicans,
H. brachysiphon and H. rakaiensis, should only pruned to remove frost-damaged,
dead or diseased growth. You can also use a pair of shears to trim all
hebes over lightly to encourage bushy growth. Variegated hebes that produce
all-green shoots, should have these removed completely.
Hydrangea paniculata, Hydrangea arborescens
During the first spring after planting, cut back all new growth to within
5cm (2in) of the old wood. This will encourage these shrubs to form a
bushy framework of branches near the base. Once this is achieved, you
can get better flowering displays by pruning well-established plants
annually. Simply cut back all the previous season's growth to the lowest
pair of buds where it joins the main stubby framework of branches. If
this is too drastic for you, reduce by about half instead.
Hypericum calycinum (rose of Sharon)
Tough as old boots, rose of Sharon can be chopped off a few centimeters
from ground level using shears, nylon-line trimmer or even a hover mower,
during early spring. Fresh new growth and plenty of flowers will then
be produced. If you find this too drastic, trim to within 15cm (6in)
of the ground and trim as necessary through the growing season to maintain
a compact shape.
My garndmother used to grow this one and I used to love taking the flowers
off and unpeeling them! There were always so many flowers on them too!
Indigofera
Little or no annual pruning is needed, other than the removal of frosted
or diseased stems and thinning out congested growth to near ground level.
Overly long or wayward shoots can be shortened at the same time. Neglected
plants will respond well to hard pruning and so can have all stems cut
back to near ground level. If this is too drastic for you, cut out one-in-three
stems, starting with the oldest instead.
Jasminum humile
Do not prune Jasminum humile during the first few years after planting.
Since it blooms on wood produced the previous season any pruning carried
out now will reduce the display this year. However, once established,
it still worth pruning to prevent the build up of old, unproductive wood.
Every few years, prune out one-in-three stems, starting with the oldest
stems.
Lavatera (tree mallow)
In spring after all risk of severe frosts has passed and buds are beginning
to break, cut back hard to between 15-30cm (6-12in) of ground level to
form a stubby framework. Don't be in a hurry to discard seemingly dead
plants after a hard winter because lavateras are renowned for being slow
to sprout in spring. Wait until May at the earliest.
Mahonia
New plants can be encouraged to produce a more branching and attractive
habit by cutting out the growing tip after flowering. Remove the top
rosette of leaves along with the spent flower heads. Established plants
of larger varieties can be kept within bounds and flowering well by removing
one-in-three stems, starting with the oldest. Low-growing mahonias used
as groundcover can be cut back hard each year during late spring. Neglected
mahonias also respond to severe pruning at this time of the year.
Melianthus (honey bush)
Melianthus will have their top growth killed in cold areas so this simply
needs clearing away in spring. In milder areas, where the top growth
remains intact, cut this back during early spring to within two or three
buds from the base. Wear gloves and a long-sleeved shirt to protect hands
and arms from the irritant sap.
Rhus typhina (stag's horn sumach)
Little or no annual pruning is needed. However, if you want more spectacular
foliage displays and are prepared to miss out on the flowers and fruit,
cut all stems back to a stubby framework of branches or to near ground
level during mid-spring. Also, wear stout gardening gloves to remove
any suckering shoots that arise around the base of the plant. Neglected
plants can be renovated by cutting all stems to near ground level, or
if this is too drastic for you, remove one-in-three of the oldest stems
each year for three years until the whole shrub has been rejuvenated.
Ribes sanguineum, Ribes odoratum (flowering currant)
Flowering currants are best pruned annually to keep them vigorous and
free-flowering. Cut back immediately after flowering during mid-spring.
Remove one-in-three stems starting with the oldest. Neglected shrubs
can be rejuvenated in the same way. Prune specimens grown as hedges immediately
after flowering.
Ruta (rue)
Pruning at this time of year will keep the plants compact and the foliage
neat and fresh, but at the expense of summer flowers. Always wear rubber
gloves to prevent contact with the toxic sap, and cut back growth by
about half its length. If you want a floral display, delay pruning until
after flowering and cut back the flowered shoots to within 2.5cm (1in)
of the old growth. Old, neglected plants also respond well to cutting
back hard at this time of the year.
Salix hastata 'Wehrhahnii'
No regular pruning is needed with this ornamental willow, although established
plants can become woody and congested if left completely to their own
devices. By pruning every other year, removing one-in-three stems, starting
with the oldest, you can get attractively coloured young stems as well
as older wood that carries the cheery early spring catkins. Prune in
mid-spring after the catkins are passed their best.
Salvia officinalis (common sage)
During the first spring after planting, cut back all new growth to
within 5cm (2in) of the ground as soon as you can see new shoots emerging
from
around the base in mid-spring. Established plants can be kept compact
and vigorous by cutting back hard during late spring. This will also
produce the best foliage displays from purple, golden and variegated
varieties.
Skimmia
Skimmias as a rule require little or no regular pruning because they
naturally form dense, compact shrubs. However, lopsided growth
and wayward shoots can be pruned back after flowering, if necessary.
Neglected plants
also can be cut back hard in spring, but are probably best replaced
with a young, vigorous specimen.
Spartium (Spanish broom)
Encourage new plants to produce bushy habit by cutting back all
new growth by about half its length during the first spring after
planting.
Established
shrubs can be kept neat and bushy by cutting back the previous
year's growth to within 5cm (2in) of older wood. Do this once
every few
years. Overgrown shrubs do not respond well to severe pruning
so are best
replaced.
Spiraea
Spiraeas are a varied group including spring- and summer-flowering
forms, some of which flower on new growth produced this year
and others that
flower on old wood produced in previous seasons. Spiraeas,
such as S. douglasii, S. japonica, that flower during the summer on
new growth
should
be pruned now by removing all weak and dead stems. S. douglasii,
which is clump-forming, producing lots of shoots from underground,
should
be pruned by cutting out one-in-three stems, starting with
the
oldest. The
more shrubby species like S. japonica and S. 'Bumalda', on
the other hand, should be cut back to a stubby framework of shoots
about 10-15cm
(4-6in) from the ground. With all these spiraeas, all stems
that remain on the plant should be cut back to within three or four
buds of the
old wood. Late-spring-flowering spiraeas as well as summer-flowering
varieties
that bloom on old wood should not be pruned until after flowering.
Also, spiraea hedges should be pruned annually, by lightly
cutting
back after
flowering to maintain a dense and neat habit.
Symphoricarpos (snowberry)
Encourage new plants to produce thick, bushy growth by cutting
back the spring after planting to 30cm (12in). Thereafter,
little or no
pruning
is necessary other than the removal of any misplaced or crossing
branches to maintain a permanent, healthy framework. This
should be done during
early spring. All-green shoots on variegated varieties should
be pruned out completely. Wait to trim informal, flowering
hedges by cutting
back the flowered shoots immediately after flowering to strong
buds or young
sideshoots lower down. Neglected plants can be renovated
by severe pruning - cutting all stems back to near ground level.
Viburnum x bodnantense, Viburnum farreri, Viburnum opulus
Do not prune these deciduous viburnums during the first few
years after planting. However, once established, older
plants that
are left un-pruned
become woody at the base where few flowers are produced.
To avoid this, prune after flowering has finished, by cutting
out one-in-five
of the
main stems at the base, starting with the oldest. Neglected
plants can be renovated by cutting all stems to near ground
level, or
if this is
too drastic for you, remove one-in-three of the oldest
stems each year for three years until the whole shrub has been
rejuvenated.
Vinca (periwinkle)
To prevent the plant from becoming invasive cut back any
unwanted shoots in spring. Use shears or even a nylon-line
trimmer to
cut back large
areas of groundcover vinca.
CLIMBERS and how to prune
Clematis (pruning group 3)
Clematis that flower from July onwards, on growth produced during the
current year. There are usually several flowers to each stem. This
group includes the C. viticella and C. texensis varieties. All require
hard pruning annually to keep under control and flowering well. In
the first year after planting, during early to mid-spring, cut back
all stems to 30cm above ground level. This will encourage more shoots
to be produced from the base for the next year. You may miss some flowering
in the first two years, but a much stronger plant will result. In the
second year, and in subsequent years, cut back all stems to just above
the base of the previous year's growth, about 30cm (12in) above soil
level. Pruning to the lowest pair of healthy buds.
Eccremocarpus scaber (Chilean glory flower)
During the first spring after planting, cut back all new growth to
15cm (6in) to encourage new shoots from the base. This tendril climber
flowers
on new growth, so in subsequent years, cut back all frost-damaged growth
and then reduce other stems to about 60cm. The new climbing stems will
carry the colourful trumpet flowers.
Hedera (ivy)
Prune ivies if necessary, during early spring before new growth starts,
to keep within bounds and to tidy appearance. Cut back wayward shoots
to just above a bud lower down the stem. Remove overcrowded shoots
entirely. Keep wall-grown ivies neat by removing shoots growing away
from the support.
Ivies respond well to severe pruning so old, neglected plants can
be reinvigorated by hard pruning - cutting back to within 50cm of the
base.
Hibbertia
During the first spring after planting, pinch out the growing tips
of each main stem to encourage new breaks to be produced from further
down.
Thereafter, little or no pruning is required, other than the removal
of dead, damaged or congested stems.
Humulus (hop)
Young plants do not need any formative pruning and established
plants can be left to their own devices, apart from clearing
away frost-killed
stems during spring. Simply, cut back all of last year's shoots
to near ground level. Tie-in any twining new shoots around the
base
of the support.
Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine)
Winter jasmine should be pruned after flowering during early
spring. Aim to create a framework of well-spaced branches over
the support.
Once well-established, cut back shoots not needed to extend
the framework to two or three buds of their base. Winter jasmine
tolerates hard
pruning so neglected plants can be reinvigorated by cutting
back to within
about
50cm of the base.
Lonicera japonica (Japanese honeysuckle)
Once the honeysuckle has reached the top of its support, tip-back
the shoots to encourage flowering sideshoots to develop.
Well-established plants can become over-congested if left unpruned,
so thin
out the main stems every few years by cutting back to a newer
sideshoot
lower
down.
Neglected plants can become a top-heavy mass of twining stems
if not
pruned regularly - with flowers out of sight on the top.
Give it a short-back-and-sides, then reduce the number of main stems
removing
any awkwardly placed or
crossing stems first. If you want a complete clear-out, honeysuckles
do respond well to hard pruning to within 30cm of the ground,
but you
will have a big gap and reduced display for a few years.
This
is best done in winter, but it's not too late now.
Lonicera henryi
During the first spring after planting, cut back the main
stems by about half their length to encourage strong new
sideshoots
near the
base. Cut
back established plants after flowering, removing one-third
of the flowering shoots. Overgrown and neglected specimens
can be
chopped
back to within
60cm (24in) of the ground to regain control. Tie in the
strongest and best-placed new shoots and cut out the remainder.
Solanum (potato vine)
Established plants should be pruned each year during early
spring to thin out overcrowded growth and restrict the
size of the climber.
Aim
to create a framework of well-spaced branches over the
support. Once well-established, cut back shoots not needed
to extend
the framework
to two or three buds of their base. Neglected plants
can be tricky to rejuvenate because they do not respond to
severe pruning.
Instead, cut
out one-in-three stems from the framework, starting with
the
oldest, every other year. Ideally cut back to a newer
sideshoot lower down,
or cut right back to the base if no suitable shoots exist.
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